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The Dean Website. AKA The Exploded Micro-Family
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More delayed musings on the state of eating (Chinese) in Beijing – and may the New Rat be a good one for you all!


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I know there are zillions of places out there about eating in Beijing and how great it all is. So I keep on asking myself why is it that when asked ‘where do you want to go and eat tonight?’ I have *no answer*, I just don’t feel like there is anywhere that I can say – ‘yes let’s go there’. Nothing where you can eat reasonably good food, that is not more than 75 kuai/person (and let me tell you that this is a *lot* of money for most Beijingren who will eat for about 10 kuai or preferably less, usually max 20 kuai, including beer), that is not (ab)using oil that has been thrice recycled or taken from a sump, and where MSG and salt are used sparingly.


The magazines out there rave about the latest and greatest but these are not restaurants for the ‘common folk’ but for expats whose lifestyle bears little resemblance to reality and who only crave to eat and live like they were somewhere else than where they are.

And this is where it is so annoying. This is not about the ripoff “foreign” restaurants in Beijing, but about Chinese restaurants. Of the thousands upon thousands of restaurants out there it is so difficult to say which one is really consistently good and more importantly, cheap.

Of course the xiao fan guan’r are where the real deals are to be found, this includes the ubiquituous Sichuan and Moslem/Xinjiang holes in the wall. But the middle ground is thoroughly dubious and this is what is so annoying. Somewhere that serves food that tastes good like your sichuan hole in the wall, but is clean, uses good oil, very little salt and msg and reasonable quality ingredients. It used to be possible to eat out and really enjoy it. At one point going to Jin Ding Xuan for Dim Sum was a real pleasure, then they got an ‘award’ for best Dim Sum in Beijing. Two months later and the food was crap. One more try six months after and it was one of the worst meals we had had. No going back there, why bother? But people still throng at the place, so what is the problem?

The problem seems to be that as incomes go up, so does the ‘in your face’ aspect of dining. It becomes more important to spend money and do it somehwre where you can be seen than going out for good food. So restaurants pile on the salt and MSG to make their food taste acceptable and increase the intake of drink (hardly surprising then that drinks have become a major part of the bill, even staples like beer managing to reach prices of 20-30 kuai for Qingdao in many places) and as long as they are hip all is well. Add in some dubious reviewing practices (after all, your reviewer needs to earn a living and not starve 🙂 and all is well.

So the increasing flow of ‘high end’ joints take away any chef that can cook a bit, the low end joints are often family run by countryside folk, so the restaurant in the middle may have only poor quality staff to chose from. But as long as the money comes in, who cares?

So, after all this raving nonsense, is there somewhere I have been to more than three times and where I can say, in all honesty, that the food is of high standard and reasonable value? Yes, Da Dong Kao Ya (Da Dong Roast Duck) is the only place that can I can think of but its prices keep on going up so it is too expensive to go to except for special occasions.

Timeout Beijing are the only rag that may have *unbiased* reviews (its own claim), and its selection is a bit better than most, but like all the other mags it can only cater for the narrow range of tastes of its readership (and its reviewers’ expenses!).

We have given up on the Golden Peacock mentioned by the above, one of our favourite restaurants. A long way out so only when visiting Zhongguancun was it religiously visited. Now, we have been disappointed twice, the fish esp has become just like anywhere else and they have increased their use of salt to artery threatening levels. But their vegetables (I am a non meat-eater, my wife is omnivorous) are fantastic and genuinely from out there. Just too salty. Also their mushrooms are very very good. For those of you who like mushrooms, Yunnan is probably a mycophile’s paradise. As a result Yunnan cuisine has a high variety of mushroom dishes, which is why I think it is my favourite of all regional cuisines in China.

One place to *definitely* go to, be prepared to have to wait for a table, refuse to be taken to the basement restaurant which may be served by a different kitchen using trainees, is the provincial government’s Sichuan restaurant: Chuanban. Localnoodles’ forumboarders are saying things may be changing for the worse there as well 🙂 This falls into all the criteria mentioned above: good food, clean food (just don’t visit the toilets!!), and a bill of under 75RMB/person. It is rough and ready, the food is also a bit rough, but is the total real deal, and uses ingredients from Sichuan. Try the cold vegetable dishes, you will understand. It is also spicy like hell. Oddly enough the Dan Dan noodles are to be avoided, the meat is of very bad quality. The Yu Xiang QieZi is absolutely fantastic and uses an apparently green skinned aubergine with a different texture and flavour from the usually used more northern purple skinned one.

Enough for now – and thanks for reading 🙂

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